06-05-2023

The wiring of the first 8 foot section has completed using the rotary stands.  Mounting the 18 turnout motors from the top down with this section inverted was quite a bit easier than sitting under the upper level and working above my head.

Lots of wire since I have a buss for each power block.  There is wiring for frog power and to switch the power on and off to the locomotive servicing tracks.

Multiple busses each on its own power block and circuit breaker.  These are the blue and gray wires.  Starting at the bottom is the branch line buss.  Above it is the yard buss (looks like a loop through middle) for classification tracks, reefer track, REA building and car shop.  The top buss is for locomotive serving areas - Coal tipple for steam, diesel service area and diesel house.  Also, a master buss that feeds the circuit breakers for the individual busses.

A closer look.  The green and yellow wires are the power for the turnout motors and will connect to stationary decoders and LEDs.  The turnout motors will operate the same as on the upper level using pushbuttons or DCC commands.

05-17-2023

Finally testing out the rotary stands to wire the bottom of the layout and mount turnout motors.

An article in Model Railroad Hobbyist a few years ago described these stands and how they can be used to minimize or eliminate the need to lay under the layout to get work done.  A bunch of scrap boards and plywood and the purchase of some casters is what was required for construction.  Bolts and drywall screws were already on hand.

The circular pieces of plywood on the stands have holes drilled at each hour position so that the layout section can be rotated and positioned as needed.

I plan to work in 8-foot sections.  The bar clamps are holding a piece of 1 x 3 to keep the 8 foot long section of plywood from sagging.  The layout sections are framed on three sides with 1 x 3.  The 8-foot side not framed rests against the wall and on 2 x 3's that are screwed into the wall studs.

Some pics of the first section on the stands.  After I finish wiring the power busses and mounting turnout motors, I will post additional pics and lessons learned.

Mounted section top

Top rotated to 11 o'clock position

Rotated completely and showing bottom of layout section where the work will be done

Bottom rotated to 11 o'clock position

 03-06-2023

More adventures installing DCC decoders.

While awaiting delivery of some decoders I decided to venture under the hood of a 20+ year old Athearn DD-40 with dual motors.

Although Athearn labels this model a DD-40 it looks more like a DD-35.  Same 4 axle trucks and close to the same profile.  After viewing quite a few pics of the actual DD-35 there are a few differences from this model.  One of the pics below is Athearn's explanation and reason for calling this model a DD-40.

One of the differences I found between the prototype DD-35 and this Athearn model is the number of radiator fans.  Six for this model and four for the DD-35.  Dual front light above the cab of the DD-35 and this model has that dual light plus another dual light in the lower front nose. 

Each motor powers one of the 4 axle trucks.  There is no connection between the drive shafts of the two motors so each motor runs independently.  I have two decoders to install in this loco and setting up the speed tables should be fun.  There is room under the body shell for both decoders.

I may get adventurous and make changes to the lights since there is only one incandescent bulb for the upper front dual light. Install a LED for upper and another for the lower front lights, add a rear light and a strobing beacon over the cab.

Reason why Athearn calls this model a DD-40.  This is on the exploded parts diagram that came with the model.

 02-20-2023

Adventures Installing DCC Decoders

Since my new hip is still healing, I am limited in my movements for another couple of weeks.  Sitting and installing decoders gives me my model railroading fix (or frustration).

A few things I have learned over this past couple of weeks installing decoders in locomotives.  I am installing basic decoders and typically do not require any more than three function outputs for lighting.

1.  No one source of information is entirely correct.  Use multiple sources.

I use the Digitrax Decoder Selector, the TCS website decoder selector and installation instructions, the NCE website, the NCE decoder Selection Tool, The DCC Guy videos (Larry Puckett) and multiple web searches.

2. The decoder indicated on the manufacturers' websites may not be the correct one for the run of your specific locomotive.  The website may show a decoder with an 8-pin plug but when you pull the shell off the loco there is no 8-pin socket.  Two twenty-year-old Life Like Proto 2000 E8's did not have the 8-pin socket but newer models have the socket.

3.  If there is a an 8-pin socket pin number 1 may not be indicated so you will need to trace the internal wiring to identify the pin numbers.

4. You may need to make changes to wiring that is not indicated in the installation instructions.  I had to remove two capacitors from the existing lighting board of an older Bachmann Spectrum 4-8-2.  The decoder could be read on the program track but would not operate on the main.  I did some digging and found this information on the TCS website.  I have other Bachmann steamers that this may apply to.

5. You must determine the voltage requirements of existing light bulbs or LED's if you want to reuse them.  Could be a 12V - 14V bulb requiring full track voltage, a 1.5V bulb or an LED requiring limiting resistors.

After watching one headlight flame out in a momentary blaze of glory I went off to Micro Center to buy some resistors.

6.  Have a DC power pack handy or DC powered track to determine if the loco is running ok before you start the installation.  I found several old ones needing lube or gear replacement.

Aside from the one light bulb flame out no other smoke, sparks or fire....... so far.

Above is the older Backmann Spectrum 4-8-2.  The 8-pin socket is located in the tender and the pins are not numbered.  In the very lower right of the existing circuit board are the two capacitors I had to remove.  Very dainty wires and connectors mate the tender to the loco.  I had to remove the shell from the loco to measure the headlight voltage.

Above is another old timer.  A Life Like Proto 2000 SW 9 / 1200.  I installed an almost drop in NCE SW9SR decoder.  The instructions from NCE are quite detailed.  The front light must be replaced by an LED and the decoder has a current limiting resistor build in.  The rear light bulb can be reused if you rewire it to the specified locations on the decoder.  Note the wires with the heat shrink tubing for the rear light.

And another older Life Like Proto 2000.  This one is an E6.  Note the two headlight openings.  Top is a mars light. Life Like used a dual filament bulb and electronics in the existing light board to simulate the mars light flashing.  The existing light board has an 8-pin socket.  So far, I have found three ways to wire the mars light.  This is where I will follow The DCC Guy video.  He just cut all the wires off the existing light board and removed the board.  Install the decoder, LED's with resistors and wire the mars light to Functions 1 (green wire).  Then set the CV's for it to flash.